Gillian Nelis on dining out: At Forest Avenue, a fruitful forage delivers a full range of fabulous flavours

A superlative sourdough is just the start of some seriously good eating at John and Sandy Wyer’s casual dining establishment

Forest Avenue Deli and Wine Bar, Sussex Terrace, Dublin 4: beat a path to its door without delay. Picture: Fergal Phillips

Forest Avenue Wine Bar,

8 Sussex Terrace, Dublin 4

01-6678337, forestavenuewinebar.ie

Chef: John Wyer

In the friendly confines of the Forest Avenue Wine Bar, my dinner guests – the fools – are attempting to prove how abstemious they are by insisting they don’t want bread.

What they don’t know is that John Wyer makes some of the best sourdough in the country, and that when it arrives at my side of the table they are ...