Dining Out

Gillian Nelis: Delicious beef cheek risotto proves a wise choice at Sage

You’d be hard pressed to find a tastier and better-value casual Sunday lunch than the dishes served up in Kevin Aherne’s Midleton restaurant

Kevin Aherne, chef-proprietor of Sage in Midleton, Co Cork: a neighbourhood restaurant providing delicious food at great prices. Picture: John Allen

Those of you of a certain vintage will remember the Ready Brek TV ads of the 1970s and 1980s, in which a young boy wolfs down a bowl of the cereal for breakfast, then heads off to school emitting an orange glow.

I’m channelling him metaphorically as I polish off my beef cheek and watercress risotto in Sage – though if my glow was real, it would be bright, shining green, because I can almost ...