Food & Wine

A starry history

Michelin has been rating Irish restaurants since 1974. Alex Meehan talks to Declan Ryan, who won a star that year, and others about what the accolade meant for them

Declan and Michael Ryan at Arbutus Lodge in Cork: the restaurant won a Michelin star in 1974

Moules farcies. Suprême de volaille Marquise de Sévigné. Butter-baked plaice stuffed with crab. These were just some of the dishes that caught the eye of the Michelin inspectors when they visited Arbutus Lodge in Cork city in 1974.

The lodge in Montenotte, Co Cork had been in the Ryan family since 1961, but it didn’t open for business as a hotel and restaurant until 1971. It was during the now 78-year-old Declan Ryan’s tenure in ...