Gillian Nelis on dining out: Coast along to a hidden gem in an east Cork fishing village

In his establishment overlooking Ballycotton lighthouse, locally-born chef Dan Guerin’s work is both deft and delicious

Cush, in Ballycotton, Co Cork, which gained its Bib Gourmand from Michelin last year. Picture: Diane Cusack

A colleague is looking up the menu at Cush, and is mightily impressed. “That’s brilliant! €38 for three courses in a Bib Gourmand restaurant? Brilliant,” he says, before recounting his experience in a Dublin restaurant the night before, when he paid €36 for one disappointing course.

Value is on all our minds again, and the days of any restaurant, in any location, being able to charge nearly 40 quid for something that isn’t of a ...