In the kitchen

Cork chef Dan Guerin on kitchen stress, Michelin stars, and the fish he calls ‘prince of the sea’

The 28-year-old aims to ‘keep the place busy and the boss happy’ at Cush, the restaurant in his home village of Ballycotton

Dan Guerin: “I don’t want Cush to be a super-formal place.” Picture: Diane Cusack

At any given time, there’s usually a stand-out ‘buzz’ restaurant on the Irish food scene. Somewhere new opens, word of mouth builds, critics flock to it, customers follow and the restaurant gets to bask in the limelight.

Usually, however, places like this are located somewhere relatively easy for lots of people to get to, in cities like Dublin, Cork or Galway - and not, for example, at the end of a working pier down a ...