Dining Out

Restaurant review: John Coffey of Thyme in Athlone is the best Irish chef you’ve never heard of

The chef-patron of the midlands restaurant is cooking up sublime dishes with the best of Irish produce

John Coffey of Thyme restaurant in Athlone, which has many loyal local customers – as well as a good number from further afield. Picture: Barry Cronin

Are you acquainted with anyone from Athlone? You might want to give them a bell to check that they’re okay, because if our fellow diners at Thyme are anything to go by, their stress levels appear to be high.

The reason is the ongoing work on the revamp of the town’s streetscape, which will undoubtedly be lovely when it’s done, but which appears to be causing some spiking blood pressure levels.

“So sorry we’re late, ...