Restaurant Review: Culinary highs a-plenty in Jean-Georges at The Leinster

The friend who accompanies me to dinner in Jean-Georges at The Leinster, the first Irish outpost of the Alsatian-born, US-based celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has been with me through the best and worst of times, culinarily speaking.

We’ve had some cracking meals together, but we’ve also had some complete stinkers. There was the time we were served something that looked remarkably like a placenta, and the evening we spent an eye-watering amount of money and ...