Neighbourhood watch: go native in Naas with dishes inspired by nature

Neighbourhood in Naas opened to some fanfare late last year following a three-month refurbishment, and impressed our food critic when she visited in January.

She was impressed with the pedigree involved, with restaurant manager Antonia Leech and bar manager Kevin Hegarty (both formerly of Aimsir); chef Gareth Naughton, who was previously head chef at Terenure’s now-closed Circa; and Jordan Bailey, who consulted on the menu.

The food at this neighbourhood restaurant takes inspiration from local produce and suppliers, with plenty of elements produced in-house, while the exceptional drinks list includes great cocktails. Here, Naughton shares recipes to try at home.

Marinated Irish tomatoes, whipped buratta and tomato and kombu broth

Ingredients, serves 4

For the marinated Irish tomatoes

400g mixed heritage tomatoes, ideally Irish

Salt to taste

10g bonito vinegar

Extra virgin olive oil

For the tomato water broth

1kg overripe vine tomatoes

2 cloves garlic

100g chervil

100g basil

22g salt

40g bonito vinegar

1 sheet of kombu seaweed

For the chive oil

100g chives

100g vegetable oil

For the whipped burrata

200g burrata

200g crème fraîche

Salt & pepper to taste

Dash of extra virgin olive oil

To garnish

Chive flowers

Marigold flowers

Dash of extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. Cut the tomatoes into medium chunks and place on a tray large enough to comfortably fit them all. Season with salt, 10g of bonito vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Place somewhere slightly warm and allow to marinate for an hour.

2. For the tomato water broth, add the overripe vine tomatoes, garlic, chervil, basil, salt, bonito vinegar and the kombu seaweed to a blender and blend until smooth.

3. Place in a colander lined with a J-cloth and allow to drip for 4-6 hours for all the liquid to gently leave the tomatoes; place into the fridge to chill until needed.

4. Blend chives and oil in a high-powered blender until it creates a bright green oil. Strain through another J-cloth until the liquid is completely collected and reserve until needed.

5. Mix together the burrata with the crème fraîche, salt, pepper and a dash of olive oil.

6. Place a spoonful of the whipped burrata on the plate with the dressed tomatoes to the side. Garnish with the marigold and chive flowers and dress with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil. Put a small jug of the tomato water broth on the side and add a drizzle of chive oil to the broth.

Roasted Feighcullen duck with Castleruddery beetroot, pickled blackberries and sorrel

Ingredients, serves 4

For the beetroot

16 baby beetroot

500g red beetroot

50ml olive oil

Salt & pepper

Dash of Llewelyns Irish Apple Balsamic

100g sugar

100g sherry vinegar

For the pickled blackberries

125g blackberries

100g sugar

4 tbsp white wine vinegar

For the roasted duck

4 duck breasts

Salt to taste

200ml chicken stock

Splash of sherry vinegar

Knob of butter

To garnish

8 medium leaves of sorrel

Method

1. Place the baby beets in a sheet of tin foil with a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of olive oil, fold the foil, and wrap it into a small parcel. Bake at 180°C in the oven for 40 minutes. With the larger red beetroots, follow the same process but bake for roughly one hour or until fork tender.

2. Peel both types of beetroot, reserving the large ones for later.

3. Dress the baby beets with the apple balsamic, olive oil, salt and pepper, and leave to marinate.

4. With the larger peeled beets, chop roughly and place in a pot with the sugar and sherry vinegar. Cook the sugar and vinegar until they glaze the beets.

5. Blend in a high-powered blender and emulsify with olive oil – add oil slowly until it is the consistency of a light mayonnaise. Keep warm.

6. For the pickled blackberries, make a pickle liquor with 100g of sugar and white wine vinegar by heating them in a pan until the sugar dissolves. Pour over the blackberries (immersing them totally) and leave to pickle until the liquor and blackberries cool.

7. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Prep the duck breasts by removing any sinew from the underneath and scoring the skin. Season with salt and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

8. Cook skin side down until the duck fat renders and the skin becomes brown and crisp. Place into the preheated oven and roast for 4 minutes or until the duck is medium rare.

9. Remove from the pan and rest for 5-6 minutes. Remove the fat from the pan. Place the empty pan back on the heat. Add the chicken stock to the pan and reduce until the liquid resembles a sauce consistency. Add a splash of sherry vinegar and a knob of butter to finish.

10. Add two spoons of the beetroot purée to the plate and dress with the pickled baby beetroot. Add 2 slices of the cooked and rested duck, 4 pickled blackberries, and 2 sorrel leaves, and finish with the sauce over the duck.

Roasted organic chicken breast with celeriac, girolles, peas, broad beans and asparagus

Ingredients, serves 4

For the chicken

4 chicken breasts, skin on

40g salt

1 litre water

4 cloves garlic

4 sprigs thyme and rosemary

Zest 1 lemon

For the celeriac purée

1 large head of celeriac

50g butter

2 sprigs of thyme

2 garlic cloves

100ml cream

100ml milk

For the fricassée

8 slices smoked streaky bacon

Knob of butter

2 cloves of garlic

100g girolle mushrooms

100g chicken stock

2 tbsp crème fraîche

100g peas

100g podded broad beans

Small bunch of tarragon

To garnish

12 spears asparagus

Pea shoots

Method

1. Combine the salt, water, garlic, thyme, rosemary, garlic and lemon zest and submerge the chicken. Allow it to brine for 1 hour. Remove the breast and allow it to air dry until ready to cook.

2. Sweat the celeriac with the butter, 2 garlic cloves, and thyme for 5 minutes, then add the cream and milk and cook for a further 30 minutes. Remove the thyme, blend in a high-powered blender until a velvety texture is achieved and keep warm until needed.

3. Sweat the bacon in a generous knob of butter and allow the fat to render. Add 2 cloves of finely chopped garlic and the mushrooms. Allow to sweat for 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken stock and allow it to reduce by half. Add 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche and allow it to reduce by half again. Once ready to serve the dish, add the peas, broad beans and tarragon. Keep warm.

4. Blanch the asparagus spears in boiling salted water for 1-2 minutes or until fork tender.

5. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place in a warm pan skin-side down and allow the skin to render for 4-5 minutes or until nicely browned. Place into the preheated oven for about 8 minutes or until the chicken reaches the desired temperature and allow to rest for a further 8 minutes.

6. Place a nice spoonful of the purée on the plate, then carved slices of the chicken, spoon over the vegetables and the sauce and finish with pea shoots.