Wine

Cathal McBride on wine: Discover the subtle power of carignan

This grape has long been considered a bit player in blends but winemakers around the world are waking up to its qualities

Tannic, high acidity and savoury umami characteristics make carignan very much a food wine

In the Languedoc, carignan plays a mostly supporting part. In Catalonia, it’s known as carineña and has a leading role. Further afield in its native Spain, the name is mazuelo.

Whatever you call it, this is a vastly underappreciated grape. The best examples come from old vines and carignan’s robust qualities mean that a careful, experienced hand is needed to see its potential fulfilled with proportional acidity and integrated tannins.

Yet these tannic, high acidity ...