Cathal McBride on finding sweet substitutes for sauvignon blanc
With economic challenges assailing the wine industry, a marked scarcity of sauvignon blanc has become apparent – so check out these alternatives instead
Our planet is in a state of flux and, unfortunately, the wine world is not immune. A combination of rising glass prices, increased shipping costs, lower-yielding vintages, barrel shortages and climate change is putting pressure on the industry. The champagne shortage has been well documented, and New Zealand sauvignon blanc is also becoming scarce.
Many of these factors are outside our control. Finding substitutes for our usual favourites, however, can be a positive exercise that enhances both our horizons and our palates.
Although it doesn’t have the same primary tropical fruit aromas, grüner veltliner is an excellent alternative to sauvignon blanc. The Brandl Zobing, 2020 from Kamptal in Austria (available at Wines Direct, €18.95) is a beautifully clear straw yellow in the glass with gold inflections. The nose here is quite mild and fresh, its mineral foundation enhanced by green pear aromas and citrus peel. The palate is concentrated with a fine balance of orchard notes plus racy lemon citrus acidity, which makes it both rich and cleansing.
You can’t have a conversation about sauvignon blanc alternatives without mentioning albariño. One high quality example is the Pazo Baión Albariño, 2020 (available from O’Briens, €21.56 in its Spanish wine sale, reduced from €26.95). Fermented with native wild yeasts, this has an intoxicating bouquet of perfumed grapefruit and floral aromas. Its citrus heart extends to the crisp and refreshing palate, finishing in a saline minerality so synonymous with the region.
If albariño is the new sauvignon blanc, then what’s the new albariño? Godello is a grape that deserves more attention and the Bodegas Altos de Torona, 2020 (available from Blackrock Cellar, Deveney’s of Dundrum, Martins Off Licence, Michael’s in Sutton, The Winehouse in Trim, €21) provides a dynamic showcase for this varietal. Also from Rías Baixas, it offers an enticing fruitful nose of peaches and pears enlivened by citrus and a delightful minerality flickering at the end. The palate is vibrantly citrus, rounded by fleshy stone fruits for a body with expert balance and structure.
It’s not all about the whites. If you enjoy pinot noir, then the indigenous grape cesanese grown in Lazio is worth investigating. One compelling choice is the Principe Pallavicini ‘Rubillo’ Cesanese, 2020 (available from McHughs Off Licence, Alain and Christine’s Wine and Card Shop, Baggot Street Wines and wineonline.ie, €20.99).
Ripe cherries abound with concentrated berry fruits encased in a hint of earthy spice, which makes for an engaging bouquet. The palate is dry and fruity with an intriguing savouriness. Medium-bodied with gripping tannins and adequate acidity, it unveils a hint of juniper and pomegranate on the finish. While this isn’t pinot noir, its characteristics make it an appealing sidestep – worth seeking out if you want a wine with similar qualities but its own personality and style.
For a more full-bodied red, pinotage is a hybrid of pinot noir and cinsault first propagated in South Africa in 1925. As a substitute for syrah/shiraz, its rich, dark plummy fruit and smoky notes make this an exciting and perhaps still undervalued variety.
A fine example is the Spice Route Swartland Pinotage, 2020 (available at Blackrock Cellar, FX Buckley, Matson’s Wine Stores, Baggot Street Wines and wineonline.ie, €25.99). This comes from Charles Back, a pioneer of the Swartland revolution. It has a seductive nose with dark concentrated plums and blackcurrant. The palate is beautifully finessed, featuring elegantly integrated oak for creamy vanilla, yogurt acidity, refined tannins and a delicate smoky finish.
THREE TO TRY, BUY AND PUT BY
Naoussa Alta Xinomavro, Apostolos Thymiopoulos, Greece, 2018 (ABV 12.5 per cent), 92
If you like light reds with character such as Nebbiolo, then this wine from northern Greece is worth investigating. Made from xinomavro, it provides crunchy red fruit in spades with cherry, redcurrant and raspberry aromas. Fresh and refined, its touch of earthy bramble, spice and cedar offers nuance. Balanced with elegant juicy fruit, bright acidity and a clean mineral finish, this is intricate yet exceptionally approachable. Pair it with grilled lamb chops.
Available from Honest2Goodness Wines (h2gwines.ie) and the Honest2Goodness Market Wine Shop, Baggot Street Wines (baggotstreetwines.com), Clontarf Wines (clontarfwines.ie) and Sweeney’s D3 (sweeneysd3.ie), €24.50
La Mateo Rioja Tempranillo Blanco, Spain, 2019 (ABV 13 per cent), 94
If you like chardonnay, particularly of the rich white Burgundy style, I suggest you try this. It has an enriching nose with intricate layers of apricots, lemon peel, oily nuts and integrated oak. The palate is deeply plush, like a Burgundy but with its own distinct sense of style. Luscious and rounded, this is a wine of particular finesse, wild yet restrained, bold and still distinguished. Ideal with a chicken fricassee or rich fish dishes.
Available from Wine Spark (winespark.com), €21.84 with a monthly subscription (traditional price €37)
Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Rouge Silex, France, 2020 (ABV 13 per cent), 93
If you like rich Burgundy pinot noir, but are put off by the 2020 vintage’s rocketing price, this could be a good alternative. Aged in French barriques for 12 months, it has a delectable nose with bright red fruits, undergrowth and sour cherries plus a hint of vegetation. Bright and inviting, the palate is delightfully balanced with cherry to the fore, a precise chalky mineral finish and vivacious acidity. Try this with pork cuts or grilled white meats.
Available from Whelehans Wines (whelehanswines.ie), €35
