Food & Wine
The Secret Restaurateur: How one Dublin restaurant changed my view of tasting menus
A sensational meal in D’Olier Street has got our industry insider thinking about his long-held scepticism of the set offering
I have long been a sceptic of tasting menus, for reasons I’ve never quite been able to put my finger on. Perhaps it’s some kind of reverse snobbery, borne from my hard-scrabble training in restaurants in the wilds outside Dublin.
My wariness has certainly been reinforced over the years by the enthusiasm of my friend The Lawyer for them. Back in 2010, he somehow conned his way into getting invited to the opening night of ...
