Wine

Brave New World makes its own chardonnay legends

It’s easy to understand why the variety travels so well, with its ability to reflect its growing environment’s characteristics

Workers pick chardonnay grapes in the Russian River Valley near Santa Rosa, California. Some of the finest examples of US chardonnay wines come from here. Picture: Getty

For many people, myself included, Burgundy is the king of chardonnay. Yet with a vast world outside this tiny French appellation and its prices continually soaring, it can be worthwhile looking elsewhere. Encountering some exciting New World expressions recently lit a desire in me to seek out more and wonder whether Burgundy’s crown might be challenged.

The ABC (anything but chardonnay) tune still lingers, but if you listen you are doing yourself a disservice. Easily ...