Cathal McBride: Take comfort in chardonnay’s move to quality

The fresh white had been over-produced and at times found wanting, but thanks to the availability of some fine examples, a resurgence is under way

Chardonnay is making a comeback after experiencing a dip in popularity

I am very fond of the bold, luscious red wines that we tend to gravitate towards at this time of year. Even so, there are other occasions when I want something with a similar comfort but a touch more freshness.

It’s difficult to look past chardonnay when seeking out a white wine with these qualities and there are myriad expressions to explore. Having survived a dip in popularity, mainly due to over-produced, poor-quality examples, chardonnay ...