Food & Wine

The €775 menu at Rene Redzepi’s Noma Kyoto is worth the price, and the hassle

Getting a table at the Danish chef’s latest iteration of his Copenhagen restaurant requires reorganising your life, but you won’t regret it

Rene Redzepi: Noma Kyoto is “magical”. Picture: Getty

Rene Redzepi’s charisma can charm dragons. Through two decades, the Danish chef’s lofty gastronomic ambitions and unfussy approach to hospitality turned his Copenhagen restaurant Noma into a culinary magnet - paradoxically inaccessible to most diners, yet enchantingly popular.

He has withstood controversies, relocations, critics, closures and Michelin’s long refusal to give him a third star (it finally relented in 2021). Those charms have made Noma the restaurant that gastronomes have to get to when they ...