Peru’s restaurants are among the world’s best; now the country’s winemakers want in on the action

They face significant historical and environmental challenges, but the country’s pioneering winemakers are determined to make progress

Jose Moquillaza was the head of Peru’s national securities regulator before becoming a wine maker. Picture: Bloomberg

It took Fernando Gonzales-Lattini four years of failed harvests to be able to make wine at 9,350 feet above sea level, atop a remote mountain overlooking maize and potato crops in the Peruvian Andes.

But once he made his first batches of sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese in 2017, a crucial buyer swiftly appeared. Since then, Gonzalez-Lattini has sold almost every bottle he’s made to the world’s best restaurant: Central, in the Peruvian capital ...