Mick O’Connell: Village varieties add another side to Burgundy’s pyramid of style

Small vignerons are creating some of France’s most exciting, and exclusive, wines

Unlike Bordeaux, where classifications focus on the chateau, in Burgundy it is the land that is classified

I arrived at the platform in Beaune to catch the 10am train, sweat already beading on my brow, thinking about the wonderful wines that had forced me to leave the car behind.

The previous lunchtime I had parked said car thinking that I might just have a little glass, to whet and wet the palate. On walking into Le Soufflot and scanning the tables, I realised that the car was staying put and I was ...