Mick O’Connell on wine: Four sauvignon blancs worth seeking out

I was driving cross-country in France, from Angers to Pouilly-sur-Loire along the river. There was thick snow all around and the journey had doubled in time. If it was any other producer I would have called and cancelled but this vigneron, more than any other, personified all that was great about sauvignon blanc and I wasn’t going to miss out.

Sauvignon blanc is a much a maligned grape variety. Some people find it boring, bland; ...