As investors and tourists take over Lisbon, chefs are fighting back
The movimento taberneiro aims to safeguard the Portuguese capital’s neighbourhood restaurants in the wake of the city’s tourism boom
When André Magalhães opened Taberna da Rua das Flores in central Lisbon in 2012, the chef had to use a camping stove to grill liver and cook the other traditional Portuguese dishes he served. Within weeks, there were queues down the street.
The 24-seat restaurant quickly came to symbolise the movimento taberneiro, an effort by a wave of primarily young chefs who wanted to safeguard Portugal’s classic tabernas against the cultural tsunami transforming the city ...