Wonderfully inventive cooking without undue formality

in Liath's unique, happy, buzzy space, you’ll eat some of the most interesting food currently being cooked on this island

Liath in Blackrock, Co Dublin is a unique, happy, buzzy space where you’ll eat some of the most interesting food being cooked on this island Pic: Maura Hickey

Liath, Blackrock Market,

19a Main Street, Blackrock,

Co Dublin

01-2123676, liathrestaurant.com

Chef: Damien Grey

The first time I tried to find this restaurant, back in February 2016, I got hopelessly lost. So did my dinner guest, who I eventually located at the far end of Blackrock Market looking just as confused as I was.

If you find yourself in a similar situation, I suggest you just follow the sound of laughter. It was ...