Let’s be natural

The appeal of natural wine, or how I learned to love passion over certainty

Members of the Valli Unite Social Cooperative Agriculture association, hard at work in northern Italy
Members of the Valli Unite Social Cooperative Agriculture association, hard at work in northern Italy

At the natural winemakers Valli Unite Social Cooperative Agricultural Association (it reads longer in Italian) in Piedmonte, north-west Italy, branding is not their main concern. The 25 members of the cooperative are not on a quest for a great Barbera, but for the best possible world.

“They’re a sort of radical hippy commune . . . a social cooperative – ...