Stars of the suburbs and old stalwarts

As happened in 2016, the most interesting new restaurants were in the suburbs, a trend typified by Old Street in Malahide in Co Dublin, and Noble in Holywood in Belfast’s commuter belt

Old Street, Malahide, Co Dublin

It has been an interesting, and somewhat up and down, year for eating out in Ireland. High-profile openings came thick and fast, especially in Dublin, but in lots of cases, style far, far outweighed substance, with some restaurateurs focusing on decor and how their food might look on Instagram to the detriment of what the stuff on their plates tasted like.

As happened in 2016, the most interesting new restaurants were in the ...