Happy to be sold a fish in a Pokē

You can dine like a queen while also doing yourself no end of good, writes Gillian Nelis

Klaw Poke, Capel Street, Dublin 1: the latest outpost of Niall Sabongi’s rapidly-expanding empire of eateries Pic: Maura Hickey

Klaw Pokē

159 Capel Street, Dublin 1

01-5560117, klaw.ie

Chef: Niall Sabongi

What’s the seafood equivalent of a beef baron? A fish pharaoh, perhaps? Actually, that’s not a bad suggestion, if I say so myself, as the prime candidate for the title in Dublin is Niall Sabongi, who was born and bred in the capital but whose family has its roots in Egypt.

Sabongi, whose dad was also in the restaurant trade, began ...