Wine: When authenticity trumps perfection

As people shun the synthetic and search for something real, natural wine is a growing phenomenon – but its earliest defenders now have concerns

Brilliant Corners on Kingsland Road in London serves up natural wine along with vegan, vegetarian, organic food and music on vinyl records

In London’s hugely influential music and food venue Brilliant Corners, punters come to hear vinyl records played and to consume raw, vegan, vegetarian, organic and wholesome food, while working their way through a global landscape of drinks that share the same values.

In Ireland, we have been quietly feeling our way to this position for a decade. This concept of honesty and authenticity through a low-tech directness is everywhere now.

You see it in restaurant ...