Cooking up a taste for the wild side

Imagine a Dublin without supermarkets, a city where your mother went grocery shopping in Findlaters on O’Connell Street and then around the corner to the Home and Colonial on North Earl Street.

You’d press your nose to the window to watch live lobsters clacking their last hours away in the fish shop on Westmoreland Street. Once in a while, for special occasions, she might go to Smyth’s of the Green for exotic treats. ...