3 to have...with hard cheese

La Cerisaie, Chateau Dereszla, Tokaji Furmint, Late Harvest 2000, around €16 in Mitchell & Son, Kildare Street and all good wine shops.

Hard cheeses with clean, definite taste contours work best with wine. Comté is among the best wine cheese. This late harvest, lean nut and marmalade delight is magically elevated by the Comté. Chilled, it is even better. (90)

Chateau La Roca, Cotes du Roussillon 2002, €18 from most good off-licences and ...