All to Play for at Dublin’s latest chicken run

Andy Noonan has put a lot of time and effort into Fowl Play, importing a smoker from Houston in Texas, putting in a custom-built charcoal rotisserie, and cooking with fire rather than gas or electricity

Fowl Play at The Square Ball: breathing new life into the humble chicken Pic: Fergal Phillips

Fowl Play at The Square Ball

45 Hogan Place, Dublin 2


Chef: Ivan Garbino

I had reason to be in a motorway service station just after 9am on a weekday morning recently, and in between the smells of coffee and pastries, there was a definite whiff of curry.

I followed my nose to one of the food outlets, where that day’s lunch offering was already cooked, and festering away under heat ...