A warm welcome for veggies and carnivores alike

The absence of big-money backers means that it was only ever going to be the food, and not the decor, that did the talking at Variety Jones. And boy, does this food talk

Variety Jones, 78 Thomas Street, Dublin 8: a place where the food, not the decor, does the talking Pic: Fergal Phillips

Variety Jones

78 Thomas Street, Dublin 8

01-4544976, varietyjones.ie

Chef: Keelan Higgs

On the way to Variety Jones, my husband informs me that he’s thinking of going veggie again.

“Do you think it would be easier this time round?” he asks, before going on to reminisce about the years he spent being served goat’s cheese tarts, and spinach and ricotta cannelloni, in Irish restaurants.

It’s nearly nine years since he started eating meat ...