A kitchen full of ambition in Malahide

Caffrey never lets technique dominate at the expense of flavour

Old Street Restaurant

Old Street, Malahide, Co Dublin

01-8455614, oldstreet.ie

Chef: Fergus Caffrey

It was a hard ould station, being a vegetarian in Ireland in the 2000s. I wasn’t one, but because my husband was, I got a pretty good insight into the experience.

The best-case scenario back then was that you’d be offered either a spinach and ricotta cannelloni, or a goat’s cheese tart – he ate enough of both of those ...