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Jozef Radacovsky, sous chef, and Karl Breen, head chef, Locks restaurant in Dublin 8

There’s a new team in the kitchen at Locks, the canalside brasserie in Dublin owned by Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt, who also run Pearl Brasserie in the city centre.

Karl Breen, formerly of The Greenhouse in Dublin and Gregan’s Castle in Clare, is the new head chef. A native of Derrymacash in Co Armagh, he says his food philosophy is “not to over-complicate dishes, and to allow the natural flavours of seasonal ingredients shine through”.

That said, this is a fine dining offering, with starters including compressed kohlrabi, sheep’s cheese custard, leek ash and shimeji, and main courses such as roasted veal with...

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