Shelbourne loses its old soul

The Saddle Room, The Shelbourne Hotel, 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Tel: 01–6634500

I made it past the army of bouncers on the front door of the newly refurbished Shelbourne last Friday night, but I bet the chef is wishing they had been more vigilant. I was with a former incumbent of my role, still a grandee of the culinary world, when we spotted two other restaurant critics. ( In case you’re ...