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First look: great investment pieces at Adam’s next fine jewellery and watches auction

Collectable, sustainable and a savvy investment, this is just a selection of what’s worth your money at the Adam’s September sale

Lot 45 of the Adam’s auction is a rare French diamond and gold bracelet, circa 1950, with an estimate of €15,000 to €20,000. It is just one of the key pieces in this September’s sale. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)

Dublin-based auctioneers Adam’s autumn edition of its fine jewellery and watches auction is a rare chance to access pieces collected and curated by its director, Claire-Laurence Mestrallet. This season’s sale looks set to be one of its most compelling yet, with some prize pieces available.

The top lot and one of its most decorative and rare is a diamond tiara and bracelet made by Köchert – a famous jewellery firm that created the Austrian emperor’s crown jewels (among others for royal houses). It was produced in 1929 with the design of the bracelet (found in their archives) created by Erwin Lang, a painter and professor at the Academy of Arts in Vienna and half-brother to Erich Köchert, the fourth generation in the family.

The leading lot (lot 36) is an Art Deco tiara/bracelet, with approximately 42.00cts diamonds, estimated at €50,000 to €70,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)

Based on the research by Mestrallet, the bracelet was then redesigned to also be worn as a diamond tiara. An additional link was made for this. Mestrallet says: “The additional link is of such fine quality that we are sure it was made by a great workshop. We suspect it might have been Bvlgari but we don’t have anything to prove it. We know, however, that Bvlgari retailed it to our current owner”. It was a common practice between the 40 to the 70s that Bvlgari would either have pieces made from other workshops than theirs or even acquire period pieces and retail them to their clients, particularly if a client would be looking for a particular piece. With approximately 42.00cts of diamonds in total, it comes with an estimate of €50,000 to 70,000.

Lot 93 is a diamond bracelet by Bvlgari, circa 1980, estimated at €7,000 to €9,000

Other lots to look out include two Alhambra necklaces by Van Cleef & Arpels – a mother-of-pearl piece (estimate €12,000 - €18,000) with a second carnelian ‘Alhambra’ purchased by the current owner at Van Cleef & Arpels in Monte-Carlo in 2013. Retailing at the time for €14,000, it now retails at Van Cleef & Arpels for €18,000 and is accompanied with its invoice. Adam’s have it for auction at €8,000 to €12,000. Worth noting too are a Tiffany engagement ring and a rare diamond single-stone ring by French jewellery house Mauboussin. See below for just a sample of the most exciting pieces coming up for auction this September.

Lot 64 is a collectible mother-of-pearl and gold ‘Alhambra’ sautoir necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1980, estimated at €12,000 to €18,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 100: A carnelian and gold ‘Alhambra’ sautoir necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 2015, estimated at €8,000 to €12,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 8, an agate ‘Camélia’ cocktail ring by Chanel, estimated at €1,800 to €2,200. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 75 is a fine lady’s diamond and emerald cocktail watch by Piaget, circa 1985, estimate €4,000 to €6,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers) Photo by Adam's Auctioneers
Lot 88: A gold Hermès ‘chaine d’ancre’ chain bracelet, estimated at €5,000 to 7,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 101: A single-stone diamond ring by Tiffany & Co. est. €1,200 to €1,800. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 141: A tanzanite and diamond dress ring, est. €5,500 to €6,500. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 138: A diamond single-stone ring by Mauboussin, estimated at €30,000 to €40,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)
Lot 77: A sapphire and diamond brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, estimated at €7,000 to €8,000. (Photo credit: Adam's Auctioneers)

Adam’s Fine Jewellery and Watches auction takes place on Tuesday, September 12 at 4pm at 26 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. Viewing days start this Friday at 10am until 5pm. Adam’s will also be on view on this weekend between 1-5pm and Monday (10am-5pm) - Tuesday 10am-3pm. For more information, contact the auction department by phone on 01 676 0261 or email jewellery@adams.ie. You can follow Adam’s jewellery and watch department on Instagram: clm_adams_auctioneers, adams.ie