Adam’s Auctioneers’ director Claire-Laurence Mestrallet on the luxe Christmas list of jewels and gems with big savings at Dublin’s next auction

Claire-Laurence Mestrallet is, as we speak, preparing for Adam’s Auctioneers’ final – and arguably biggest – fine jewellery and watch auction of the year.

A director of the Dublin-based auctioneers and the head of its fine jewellery and watches department, Mestrallet has examined and valued hundreds of contemporary jewels and vintage gems for Adam’s Christmas auction, with a total tally of 247 pieces going under the hammer.

But what makes this auction special? The array of impeccable and close-to-new modern pieces for a fraction of their retail prices is one of this auction’s strongest sell. This is coupled with Adam’s offering of rare collectibles, which can often fetch far higher prices than their estimated auction value, meaning there will be a piece to fit every budget and style preference.

“The auction jewellery market is a completely different market to retail and therefore value is considerably lower. All transactional costs of retail value are removed when valuing the pieces,” Mestrallet told Irish Tatler.

“Having said that, some collectible pieces can reach higher values at auction. For example, we sold a sapphire and diamond mystery-set flower brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels in September 2022 estimated at €30,000 to 50,000 which fetched €137,500 on auction day.

“Similarly, a convertible diamond bracelet/tiara (circa 1930) by Austrian imperial jewellers, Köchert, estimated at €50,000 to €70,000 was consigned by an Italian noble lady and fetched €118,750 in our last September auction. Where else would you find the same collectible pieces in Ireland?” she added.

As Ireland’s biggest auction house, Adam’s Auctioneers has become an Irish leader recognised in an international market. Opening in St Stephen’s Green in 1887, its 136-year history has earned the auction house an established reputation and an unrivalled network and knowledge bank.

So, ahead of the auction on Tuesday December 5 at 4pm in Adam’s St Stephen’s Green auction house, Dublin 2, Mestrallet rounds up her top seven picks worth making a note of. Whether it’s an investment you’ve been waiting for the right time to make, or a luxe Christmas present for a lucky giftee, here’s your exclusive, expert take.

Lot 187: Diamond ‘forever’ eternity ring by Tiffany & Co.

This eternity ring is mounted in platinum with diamonds of approximately 2.80cts, and it is signed with a maker's case and pouch. The estimated auction price is €3,500 to €4,500 while the retail price at Tiffany & Co. is €24,200.

Lot 10: A mother-of-pearl and diamond butterfly brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

This brooch is mounted in 18k white gold, signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, and numbered with the maker's mark. The estimated auction value is €4,000 to €5,000, with a retail price of €15,600.

Lot 13: Stainless steel and diamond-set ‘Cape Cod’ wristwatch by Hermès

This stainless steel wristwatch has its dial, case, and clasp signed by Hermès, and it comes with a certificate of authenticity from the luxury house. This pristine piece is estimated to be auctioned for €2,500 to €3,500, while the retail price is €7,400.

Lot 158: Diamond three-stone ring by Tiffany & Co.

The central diamond of this ring sits between pear-shaped diamond shoulders weighing 0.19ct each, mounted in platinum, and signed Tiffany & Co. The ring is numbered with the maker's mark and comes with the maker's case. The estimated price is €1,400 to €1,800, while the retail price ranges between €9,200 €9,800.

Lot 17: Diamond ‘lotus between the finger’ dress ring by Van Cleef & Arpels

This ring is mounted in 18k gold and signed Van Cleef & Arpels. It can be worn on one or two fingers. It is estimated to be auctioned for €15,000 to €20,000, while the retail price at VC&A is €39,600.

Lot 108: An important diamond pendant necklace 5.01cts

The pear-shaped diamond of this pendant necklace weighs 5.01cts and is suspended from a chain mounted in 18k gold. The pendant is accompanied with an insurance valuation from Rocks Jewellers in Dublin for €150,000 and it would retail for such in a jewellery shop. The insurance valuation also states its GIA certificate number as 15623911. The estimated auction price is €45,000 to €55,000, making it one of Adam’s top lot.

Lot 110: Diamond ‘Caresse d’Orchidées’ earrings by Cartier

Each orchid flowerhead of these earrings are polished with gold petals centring a brilliant-cut diamond and mounted in 18k rose gold. They are accompanied with a certificate of authenticity from Cartier in Monte-Carlo. The estimated auction price is €1,500 to €2,000.

For the full listing and descriptions of each piece up for auction, visit Adam’s official e-catalogue here.

Adam’s Fine Jewellery and Watches auction takes place on Tuesday December 5 at 4pm in its auction house on 26 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. The viewing exhibition will be from Friday December 1 until Tuesday December 5. You can also register to bid live from the comfort of your own home at adams.ie.

For more information, contact the auction house by phone on 01 676 0261 or email jewellery@adams.ie. You can follow the Adam’s jewellery & watch department on Instagram: @clm_adams_auctioneers.