The 5 new womenswear trends you need to know

From the everyday extraordinary to the 90s remix, here are our five trends to watch for spring 2024

Key looks this season include ‘90s revival, primary colours and elevated athleisure

Daily Luxe

From left: Victoria Beckham, Loewe, Ferragamo and Gucci

This is all about taking your favourite pieces and reimagining them in a more elevated way. If you are looking for cues, check out the addition of split sleeves to an impeccably tailored black suit at Ferragamo (Net-a-porter has increased their buy of the label by 25 per cent this season), or the exaggeration of the high-waisted trousers at Loewe. Day clutches were revamped and front and centre at Victoria Beckham and Jacquemus, offering sleek and compact accessories that are perfect for carrying your day-to-day essentials while exuding elegance and minimalism. In footwear, ballet pumps from Toteme and The Row are also key for spring-summer with new brand Le Monde Béryl.

Primary Colours

From left: Gucci, JW Anderson, Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta Photo by Irish Tatler

Red is a colour you will be seeing a lot of this season, but bold, strong hues in general are going to be a key feature. On the catwalk, some designers took a head-to-toe tonal approach while others added just a flash of colour for something a little less all-in. Cobalt blues, bright greens and yellows were the dominant shades, with accessories a perfect place to nail your primary colours to the mast as seen at JW Anderson and Ferragamo who offered playful pops of yellow, pale blue and teal on clutches.

Romantic Shift

From left: Zimmermann, Stella McCartney, Erdem, Tove

Mercifully grown-up with a slightly darker edge – organza, lace, intricate ruffles and 3D florals were the textural palette for a swathe of designers, but put together in a more easy, undone way that still felt modern. Pastel colours, and pastel dresses in particular were on many buyers’ shopping lists, with colours ranging from sugary-sweet lilacs to translucent pinks. Here Versace’s collection was key, and again, in a nod to the ‘90s revival, was inspired by one of the brand’s great shows of 1995, while Erdem used floral prints in surprisingly vivid hues of green and blue. Zimmermann was unabashedly romantic with feminine florals, delicate petals and soft colours while Stella McCartney, Tove and Coperni’s lingerie dresses gave off a sensuality and modernity with traditional lace and silk fabrics.

90s remix

From left: Isabel Marant, Courrèges, MaxMara, Victoria Beckham

If the revival of Proenza Schouler’s iconic ‘PS1’ in a new ’90s style didn’t tell you everything you need to know, then the predominance of clean, minimal lines so indicative of the decade made it clear the 1990s are back. Or not so much back, as strengthening their hold, as key styles such as grey tailoring, boyfriend jeans, white shirts and minimal branding were making their presence felt last season too. Black, white, and beige are key palettes here, with maxi cami dresses being reprised at Isabel Marant and oversized suits in minimal tones of beige at Victoria Beckham’s PFW show. Look to Proenza Schouler, Courrèges, Max Mara and Bottega Veneta for your cues.

Elevated Athleisure

From left: Loewe, JW Anderson, Miu Miu, Dries Van Noten

Drawstring lounge pants, oversized tank dresses, anoraks, or a refined slipper, there was what many described as a “preppy, sporty sensibility” to this season’s shows, proving just how dominant casual dressing has become over recent years. Dries Van Noten’s high-low mix with rugby-striped pants paired with couture-like coats showed just how to nail this particular oeuvre, with retro sneakers continuing to make a comeback – luxe etailer Net-a-porter is already reporting an 80 per cent increase in searches for adidas Originals’ ‘Samba’ style. Elsewhere Loewe channelled a more collegiate attitude with polo-top dresses and fisherman sandals. But JW Anderson didn’t stop there, introducing bomber-jacket-inspired pants in his eponymous collection. Bags will be key here too, with the so-called ‘anti-gym bag’ (a gym bag that doesn’t look like a gym bag effectively), oversized totes, weekenders and mesh shopping bags all making versatile companions.