How the history of Carlow is stitched into Borris Lace
Artist Ally Nolan works with Borris Lace Exchange to share her knowledge of the craft, its techniques and its history
If the craftsmanship coming out of County Carlow is anything to go by, then the surrounding countryside is undoubtedly a very inspiring place for creative people.
Ally Nolan, 29, can attest to this, as she has been creating fashion and textile pieces, combining traditional craft techniques with new technology, since 2016.
She said that both the environment around her and our rich heritage have been hugely instrumental to her work.
“I am inspired by Irish art, history, crafts and customs and I love learning about and incorporating Irish heritage crafts into my work,” Nolan said. “I am interested in highlighting and sustaining the rich history of textile making we have here, work which has been lovingly created by skilled craftspeople for generations.
“The traditional Irish hand crafts are often labour intensive and intricate, and in the past, would have taken groups of dedicated women hours to create.
“I have found that by using digital technologies such as CAD (computer aided design) and laser cutting, I can preserve and reproduce these detailed patterns on a larger scale, making them accessible to a broader audience – and I always ensure the pieces I make are finished with hand stitching, to honour the tradition and integrity of the craft I am working with.”
The Carlow woman said she hopes to “strike a balance between tradition and innovation” and that her pieces are aimed at individuals who appreciate Irish culture, heritage, and craftsmanship. She believes they resonate with people seeking a connection to their roots.
“My environment has a significant impact on my work. I am inspired by nature and am fortunate to live in a rural area in Carlow which is surrounded by water and trees,” she said. “Taking inspiration from your local surroundings has long been a common theme in Irish heritage crafts and is perhaps one of the reasons I connect with this work.
“A recent piece I made, commissioned by Craft Hub, was inspired by the Aran jumper and it was interesting to discover that each stitch pattern relates to Irish life and landscape. The honeycomb stitch pays homage to the hard-working honeybee, while the diamond stitch symbolises interconnectedness and prosperity, reminding us of the close-knit communities of the Aran Islands.
“Closer to home, our local craft, Borris Lace, is inspired by the Carlow countryside. It is a tape lace, whereby lace tape is first laid in a continuous line which forms the foundation of every design. This craft began as a famine relief project in the mid-1840s, giving local women a much-needed way to earn an income.
“This is why initiatives like Craft Hub are so important, as they not only preserve the craft traditions but also the stories and connections which go hand in hand with them. Local crafts tell us about a place and its people, and the history of Carlow is stitched into Borris Lace.”
Being involved in a local craft has also allowed the artist, who studied fashion, design and art history at the National College of Art and Design, before completing a masters in Irish art history at Trinity College in 2019, to liaise with international artists.
“The Borris Lace Exchange began in Carlow and subsequently connected with participants in Matera, Italy, as part of a craft and cultural exchange,” she said. “The project is an initiative supported by Creative Ireland and Craft Hub, supported by Creative Europe, and it allows participants from Ireland and Italy to connect over a shared interest.
“For my part in the project, I designed craft packs inspired by Borris Lace which allowed participants to learn about the craft, its techniques and its history
“Currently, we are making a collaborative quilt where the designs of all the Italian and Irish participants will be linked together to form one continuous Borris Lace-inspired design. The workshop was enriching to see the Italian participants connect with and appreciate our local craft and make it their own.
“These women [at Borris Lace Exchange] are the true custodians of the craft and have ensured that the lace techniques are honoured and preserved. We brought some of the lacemakers’ work to show to the Italian craftspeople participating – and a highlight of the workshop was the acknowledgement and appreciation of the skilled work of the Borris Lacemakers.
“This experience was particularly special as Italy is renowned for its lace. You could see that, despite the language barrier, there was a mutual understanding and respect for each other’s work and craftsmanship.”
