I‘m sitting on a wall beneath a cross in the centre of the south-facing part of the hill of Corton. My companion and I are sipping Bonneau du Martray, from the hot 2005 vintage, straight from the bottle because neither of us had the wherewithal to bring glasses.
We ponder how this venerable wine would have developed, had it been given the time, as the sun drops behind the hills at Pernand-Vergelesses. It‘s a...
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