The enigma of Riesling’s sour grapes

Despite the passionate call for a return to the serious grape of the past, new Rieslings are all about humour and informality

8th December, 2019
The enigma of Riesling’s sour grapes
Harvesting riesling grapes on the hillside of the Mosel river, a tributary of the Rhine. Picture: Getty

For well over 20 years now, wine lovers have been watching with increasing frequency the peculiar phenomenon of a very passionate, very articulate and sometimes almost cult-like form of hype longing for the return of a particular grape. That grape is Riesling.

This movement is deeply bizarre, with waves of books and articles calling for a Riesling Renaissance essentially suggesting that there was a moment of wine perfection in the past, a lost Eden that we...

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