Sunday August 9, 2020

The enigma of Riesling’s sour grapes

Despite the passionate call for a return to the serious grape of the past, new Rieslings are all about humour and informality

8th December, 2019
Harvesting riesling grapes on the hillside of the Mosel river, a tributary of the Rhine. Picture: Getty

For well over 20 years now, wine lovers have been watching with increasing frequency the peculiar phenomenon of a very passionate, very articulate and sometimes almost cult-like form of hype longing for the return of a particular grape. That grape is Riesling.

This movement is deeply bizarre, with waves of books and articles calling for a Riesling Renaissance essentially suggesting that there was a moment of wine perfection in the past, a lost Eden that we...

Subscribe from just €1 for the first month!

Exclusive offers:

All Digital Access + eReader



Unlimited Access for 1 Month

Then €19.99 a month after the offer period.

Get basic
*New subscribers only
You can cancel any time.



€149 For the 1st Year

Unlimited Access for 1 Year

You can cancel any time.




90 Day Pass

You can cancel any time.

2 Yearly



Unlimited Access for 2 Years

This product does not auto-renew

Team Pass

Get a Business Account for you and your team

Share this post

Related Stories

Puglia wines might not be so familiar to Irish wine lovers, but the region’s many grape varieties are worthy of investigation

Cathal McBride | 15 hours ago

The eastern French region doesn’t enjoy the same name-recognition factor as its cousins in Bordeaux and Burgundy, but most of its whites have a piercing quality that startles and delights

Brigid O'Hora | 1 week ago

Valpolicella is one of the hardy annuals of Italian wine, and its refined taste radiates the same elegance as the beautiful region where it originated

Julie Ward | 2 weeks ago