German wines undergo an identity crisis

The story of German wine is being wrongly told, with too much emphasis on slickness: time to get back to the basics

8th March, 2020
German wines undergo an identity crisis
Harvest time at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany's most famous wine estate

Every five years or so, someone puts the words Renaissance and Riesling together, before berating wine lovers across the world for misunderstanding the genius of Riesling. We wine lovers hang our heads, and dutifully give German Riesling another try from what we can find in our local wine shops.

What we find on those wine shelves is very patchy. In shops where the owner has a passionate or personal interest the wines on offer can be...

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