Evening shadows dance on the cobbled alleyways, lofty church spires, grand guild houses and baroque bridges. It’s as if we’re on a medieval movie set, peeking through the handblown glass windows of an imposing mansion at portraits of doughty merchants and bejewelled ladies, illuminated by a hanging candelabra.
We pause in front of the Castle of the Counts, the only remaining medieval fortress in Flanders, whose defence system is still virtually...
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