Return to paradise

Chef Denis Cotter broke new ground in Irish food when he opened his vegetarian restaurant Café Paradiso in Cork over 25 years ago. He may not be vegan, he tells Joe McNamee, but he believes a plant-based diet is essential for the planet

Denis Cotter, founder and executive chef of Café Paradiso in Cork City Photo: Cathal Noonan

In 2014, when I met Denis Cotter in his pioneering and internationally renowned vegetarian restaurant Café Paradiso in Cork, he admitted that his great love of cheese would always be a barrier to him becoming vegan.

But veganism, then still perceived as a fad, is now a juggernaut driving profound change to first-world western diets. “The meaning of veganism and vegetarianism has changed radically in the last five years,” said Cotter, who became ...