Driving west to Calatayud from the Spanish city of Zaragoza and its vast desert, the setting sun illuminates the motorway as it cuts through the hills. The mountains‚ bleached topsoil is layered over a complex layering of black, blue and ferric strata.
This soil is good for vines, the roots of which bore down to find water. The older the vine, the longer the roots, and the more complex geology they pass through as...
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