It feels like a Houdini moment. We enter an ugly concrete building, descending an equally unattractive flight of steps into the bowels of Tashkent’s subway system whose hurrying commuters are overwhelmingly young males wearing white shirts and tailored black trousers.
A sprinkling of rural women, decked out in layered long skirts and draped headscarves, stand on the station’s platform, lost in wonder, gazing up at ornate domed ceilings of mosaics and enormous chandeliers...
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