‘Are you here to hunt vampires?” whispers the receptionist at the Hotel Belvedere in Cluj-Napoca, a medieval city of 300,000 people in central Romania that is the unofficial capital of the historical province of Transylvania.
“No, no,” I demur, mindful of local sensibilities about supernatural stereotypes, but now wishing I had slipped that vial of Holy Water into my bag as my wife suggested, “I’m here for the comedy film festival.”...
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