One of the frequent criticisms of the Veneto’s ripasso wines is that they are all about the flavours of technique, rather than the vineyard or the soils. It is true that half a dozen steps, including drying the grapes for months, can sidestep some primary fruit flavours. In Bardolino, Valpolicella’s neighbour to the east, we have an antidote to that in the Veneto’s Cru Beaujolais-a-like. Here we have crunchy, primary dark fruits, with touches of...
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