To try, buy and put by

TO TRY: Drac Magic, DO Catalunya, Tomàs Cusiné 2016, €16.95 from Searsons Wine Merchants, Monkstown Crescent; at searsons.con and at wine shops and off-licences (90)

While Catalan nationalism may be somewhat stalled at the moment, in the sphere of wine the rise of a Catalan sensibility is continuing at breakneck speed. In sparkling wine there will soon be a Cava Plus DO, rivalling Champagne, and in the high mountains of northern Catalonia the ...