All three wines today are examples of one of Italy’s greatest, but currently slightly unfashionable wines, Chianti. Years of overproduction after World War II by unambitious co-operatives and wineries led to the widespread undermining of Chianti’s reputation. Great producers tried to escape the sullied Chianti name by inventing the Supertuscan category. A few other producers like Selvapiana hung on and sought to impose higher standards, as they do here from their high-altitude, ancient Rufina-based vineyards....
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