The Veneto around Valpolicella on the southern shores of Lake Garda is rightly famed for its red wines and especially its icon, Amarone. At the very southern shore of Lake Garda are small ports, crammed full of Italy’s yachting and celebrity set. The restaurants are expensive and the cars flashy. The land and vines are poor, not up to Valpolicella standards, but here the white Trebbiano grape, undervalued elsewhere makes a sophisticated, Chablis-like wine of...
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