GD Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont 2017, €22.95 at The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; 64 Wines, Glasthule, and off-licences nationwide (91)
The other red grape of Piedmont, nebbiolo, is Italy’s great thoroughbred vine and, like pinot noir to which it is so often compared, it is an incredibly difficult, high-maintenance and elusive grape to grow and vinify. When it works, it is a high-priced jewel. This wine, however, is barolo and Piedmont’s easygoing middle child, the dolcetto grape,...
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