Thursday February 20, 2020

The untold story of a sparkling giant

Prosecco was being written about by the Romans as long ago as the first century AD, but in many ways its narrative is just beginning

17th February, 2019
Grapes are harvested for prosecco in Treviso, Italy Pic: Getty

The story of prosecco, the fastest-growing category of sparkling wine, is much shorter and much odder than you might think.

We can begin our tale in 2006, and the publication of Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson’s Wine Atlas. Here, there was just one sentence on prosecco in the entire book, as the now-dominant sparkler was dismissed as a “tourist lubricant” for visitors to Venice. In 2006, of course, prosecco had yet to receive its own...

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