His head bowed like a boxer, Rhône winemaker Jean-Luc Colombo is shifting from foot to foot.
He is considering what makes fine wines, and particularly those he makes, owns or consults on, more interesting than many New World wines.
He jabs out, invoking the name of the Lur-Saluces family who owned first classed growth Sauternes Château D’Yquem for almost four centuries.
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