The view is edged with a soaring spire of Dolomite rock which resembles dragon teeth snapping at the clouds, transformed into a gigantic lizard’s tail of pink and orange by sunset. I catch my breath as we ski past Cittá dei Sassi (the City of Rocks) under the shadow of some of the world’s most awesome mountain peaks, in the heart of Val Gardena, once part of Austria, today an autonomous region of Italy....
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